Skincare Ingredients

Ulmus Fulva Bark Extract

Ulmus Fulva (slippery elm) bark extract is primarily a mucilage-rich soothing/film-forming botanical used at low percentages to support barrier comfort, and it is generally well-tolerated in leave-on products. However, as a plant extract containing multiple proteins/polyphenols, it carries a small but real risk of irritant or allergic contact dermatitis in highly reactive or eczema-prone patients, especially when layered with other actives. Given this sensitization potential despite its "soothing" reputation, a gentle-but-not-inert score is most clinically appropriate. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Ulmus fulva (slippery elm) bark extract is most often used as a low-level soothing/film-forming botanical at trace-to-sub-0.1% levels in multi-botanical lotions, toners, and cleansers, with the lowest observed use around 0.001% (label-listed near the end in complex blends). Higher-strength consumer products marketed for barrier support or irritation relief (balms, serums, masks) can use dedicated slippery-elm extracts at ~1–5%, with ~5% representing the upper end typically seen before viscosity, tack/film feel, odor/color, and botanical-solids stability become limiting; rinse-off products tend to sit toward the low end while leave-on occlusive/soothing formats can reach the high end.

Ultramarines

Ultramarines are inorganic pigment colorants typically used at low levels in cosmetics (often well under a few percent) and are generally considered non-reactive on intact skin. However, as particulate pigments they can contribute to mechanical irritation (especially around eyes or on eczematous, barrier-compromised skin), and rare intolerance has been reported with color additives. Given the vulnerable populations in question, a very gentle (but not inert) score best reflects real-world risk. Safety Notes: Ultramarines are inorganic colorants used primarily in color cosmetics; in skincare-adjacent products (tinted moisturizers/BB creams, sunscreens with tint, cleansers with pearlescent color) they can appear at trace levels for hue correction, with the lowest real-world use commonly in the ~0.0005–0.01% range. In high-pigment consumer products like pressed/loose eyeshadows, eyeliners, and cream pigments, ultramarines can be a major portion of the color system and reach ~10–35% depending on shade intensity and formula type (anhydrous creams and powders tending to allow higher pigment loading than emulsions). Use is restricted by regulatory positive lists (e.g., EU/US color additive rules) and practical limits like dispersion, abrasiveness, and color strength rather than a single universal concentration cap.

Ulva Lactuca Extract

Ulva lactuca (sea lettuce) extract is typically used at low concentrations as a soothing/antioxidant and humectant-supporting botanical, and it is not inherently pH-active or keratolytic. Clinical experience and patch-test data for seaweed-derived extracts generally suggest good tolerability, but—as with many botanicals—there is a non-zero risk of irritation or sensitization in highly reactive or eczematous patients due to complex polysaccharide/protein fractions and potential trace contaminants. Given this low but real risk in compromised skin, it fits best as a generally well-tolerated “gentle” ingredient rather than exceptionally gentle/inert. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare, Ulva lactuca (sea lettuce/green algae) extract is commonly used at very low levels (often via a diluted supplier solution) around 0.0005–0.05% active to support marketing claims and add antioxidant/soothing positioning without impacting odor/color or stability. Mid-range serums/creams and masks more typically land around 0.1–1% active extract. High-strength consumer products marketed as “algae/seaweed concentrates” (leave-on ampoules/serums, some wash-off masks) can reach ~2–5% depending on extract type (glycerin/water vs powder) and sensory/stability constraints; higher levels are uncommon due to tackiness, marine odor, and color shift.

Uncaria Tomentosa Extract

Uncaria tomentosa (cat’s claw) extract is a botanical antioxidant/soothing claim ingredient typically used at low percentages, but plant extracts contain multiple alkaloids/polyphenols that can act as sensitizers and are a recurring trigger in eczema-prone, highly reactive skin. Robust irritation/HRIPT data for topical use is limited, so from a patient-safety standpoint it should be treated as a moderate-risk ingredient with meaningful potential for stinging, dermatitis, or delayed allergy in susceptible users—patch testing is prudent. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on products, Uncaria tomentosa (cat’s claw) extract is most often used as a minor antioxidant/soothing botanical at very low levels (typically fractions of a percent), with the lowest observed commercial usages around 0.001% in multi-botanical blends where it supports a marketing claim rather than driving efficacy. Higher-strength consumer-available serums/creams marketed around concentrated botanicals and “anti-inflammatory/anti-aging” positioning can reach about 1–5% when the extract is supplied as a dry extract equivalent (or high-solids glycerin/propylene glycol extract) and formulation aesthetics/stability permit. There is no specific FDA/EU cosmetic maximum for this botanical; practical limits are instead driven by extract solvent system, color/odor, and irritation/sensitization risk, and rinse-off products generally sit toward the lower end due to short contact time.

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Undaria pinnatifida (wakame) extract is a marine botanical typically used at low concentrations as a humectant/soothing-antioxidant component, and it is generally well tolerated in routine cosmetic patch-testing experience. However, as a complex seaweed extract (mixture of proteins/polysaccharides/iodine-containing fractions), it carries a small but real risk of irritation or allergy in highly reactive or eczema-prone patients, especially on compromised skin or when combined with other actives. Given this low-but-nonzero risk profile, it rates as gentle rather than exceptionally gentle. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on moisturizers/serums and many rinse-off cleansers, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is commonly used as a secondary “marine botanical” at very low levels (often around 0.001–0.05%) consistent with supplier recommended use rates and typical INCI listing practices. Higher-strength consumer products marketed around “seaweed/kelp” actives (leave-on gels, ampoules, and some marine masks) are observed using ~1–5% of the extract (not whole seaweed), with 5% representing the upper end seen in OTC products where viscosity, odor/color, and formula stability become limiting.

Undecane

Undecane is a volatile hydrocarbon used in cosmetics as a lightweight solvent/emollient (often in small percentages and sometimes as part of C9–C12 alkane blends) and is generally not a classic irritant at typical use levels. However, as a nonpolar solvent it can be mildly defatting and disrupt barrier lipids with repeated exposure, so reactive or eczema-prone skin may experience dryness or stinging, especially in leave-on products or alongside other actives. Given this low-but-nonzero irritation potential in compromised skin, it best fits a “gentle” score rather than inert. Safety Notes: Undecane is most often used as a volatile/light emollient and solvent in leave-on color cosmetics (e.g., long-wear foundations, lip products, sunscreens) where it may appear at low levels (~0.05–1%) as part of a hydrocarbon/solvent blend for slip and dry-down. In high-transfer-resistant, anhydrous or low-water systems (especially long-wear lip color, complexion products, and some spray/serum textures), it can be a primary vehicle alongside other volatile hydrocarbons, reaching the low-to-mid tens; the upper end (~20–25%) reflects consumer-available long-wear formulations where undecane is a major component but not the sole carrier. No specific EU/FDA maximum is set for undecane as a cosmetic ingredient; practical limits are driven by volatility/odor, sensory profile, flammability considerations for aerosols, and compatibility with film formers and waxes.

Urea

MVP Approved - Urea is a versatile skincare ingredient primarily used for its hydrating and gentle exfoliating (keratolytic) properties to improve skin texture; it is generally low in irritancy when used at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Urtica Dioica

Urtica dioica (stinging nettle) extracts are used as botanical soothing/sebum-balancing agents, but the plant contains histamine, formic acid, and other stinging constituents that can trigger irritant contact reactions and contact urticaria, especially in compromised barrier skin. While cosmetic extracts are typically processed and used at low percentages, clinical experience and patch-test reports show botanicals like nettle can still provoke flares in eczema-prone or highly reactive patients. Given the potential for immediate stinging/itch and unpredictable sensitization risk, I rate it as a moderate irritant where patch testing is prudent. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Urtica dioica (nettle) is most often used as an extract in leave-on toners/serums/creams at very low levels (often ~0.001–0.1%) as part of multi-botanical blends, with rinse-off shampoos/cleansers commonly around ~0.05–0.5%. The upper end is observed in consumer-available “high-botanical” masks, scalp treatments, and herbal creams using concentrated glycerin/propylene glycol extracts or reconstituted dry extracts, where nettle-derived material can reach ~5–10% while remaining within typical EU/FDA cosmetic use (no specific maximum set, but limited in practice by odor/color, irritation potential, and extract solvent system).

Urtica Dioica Extract

Urtica dioica (stinging nettle) extract is used in low concentrations as a botanical soothing/anti-inflammatory or sebum-balancing agent, but plant extracts carry variable composition and can trigger irritant reactions or allergic contact dermatitis in reactive and eczema-prone patients. While generally tolerated by many users, clinical patch testing and case reports across botanicals support a non-trivial risk of sensitivity, especially in compromised skin barriers and in multi-ingredient routines. Given this variability and patient-safety prioritization, I score it as mild with occasional sensitivity possible. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare and scalp-care products, Urtica dioica (nettle) extract is commonly used at very low levels (~0.01–0.2%) as part of botanical blends where it primarily supports marketing/soothing or oil-control claims. Mid-range use (0.5–3%) is seen in toners, gels, and creams where the extract is a more meaningful active-support component. High-strength consumer-available formulas (typically water/glycerin extracts or concentrated botanical complexes) can reach ~5–10% in leave-on serums/ampoules and some rinse-off masks/shampoos, with the practical ceiling driven by odor/color, stability, and irritation potential rather than specific regulatory limits.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (cranberry) fruit extract is typically used at low concentrations as an antioxidant/soothing “botanical” additive, but it contains organic acids and polyphenols that can sting or trigger irritant reactions in compromised barriers. Clinical experience and patch testing trends with botanical extracts show a small but real rate of irritation/sensitization in reactive or eczematous skin, especially when layered with other actives; therefore it is best classified as mildly irritating rather than inherently gentle. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare (serums/lotions/eye creams) Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract is frequently used as a supporting antioxidant/marketing extract at very low levels (often ~0.001–0.1%), consistent with typical supplier-recommended use levels for botanical extracts. Higher-strength consumer-available products—especially “superfood/antioxidant” masks, treatment serums, and some rinse-off cleansers—can reach ~1–5% when the extract is a primary featured botanical, with upper use constrained by odor/color, stability, and cost rather than specific regulatory limits.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil is primarily an emollient/occlusive lipid used in leave-on products typically around ~0.5–10% to support barrier function; as a non-volatile fixed oil it is generally well tolerated. However, like other botanical seed oils it contains minor unsaponifiables and can oxidize, which can increase stinging or trigger dermatitis in a small but real subset of highly reactive or eczematous patients. Given this low-but-nonzero irritation/sensitization potential, it fits best as a generally gentle ingredient rather than exceptionally gentle or inert. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, cranberry seed oil is often used as a minor emollient/marketing botanical in creams, lotions, and cleansers at trace-to-low levels (~0.05–0.5%), with many leave-on facial moisturizers/serums commonly around 0.5–5% when it is a meaningful part of the oil phase. At the high end, it is also sold directly to consumers as single-ingredient “100% cranberry seed oil” facial oils and as the predominant oil in anhydrous balms/oil serums (typically ~20–90%), so the observed OTC market maximum reaches 100% for neat oil products.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Myrtillus (bilberry) fruit extract is typically used at low concentrations as an antioxidant/polyphenol and color/marketing extract, and it is not inherently caustic like acids or retinoids. However, botanical extracts contain multiple bioactive compounds and trace impurities that can provoke stinging or allergic-type reactions in reactive or eczema-prone skin, with patch testing showing occasional sensitization across plant extracts as a class. Given real-world cumulative exposure in multi-extract formulas and the need to protect highly sensitive patients, it warrants a mild (0.4) irritancy score rather than being treated as universally “gentle.” Safety Notes: In mass-market cleansers, toners, and creams, Vaccinium Myrtillus (bilberry) fruit extract is frequently used as part of an “antioxidant/fruit complex” or botanical blend at very low label-levels (often around 0.0005–0.05%), especially in rinse-off where contact time is short. Mid-range leave-on serums/lotions commonly use ~0.1–1% when bilberry is a featured antioxidant/brightening support extract. High-strength consumer-available formulas (e.g., “superfruit” antioxidant serums/masks or products built around a bilberry extract/ferment) can reach ~2–5% extract, with higher practical limits typically constrained by extract solvent system, color/odor, and stability rather than specific regulatory caps.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Leaf Extract

Vaccinium myrtillus (bilberry) leaf extract is a botanical antioxidant/astringent used at low concentrations, but as a complex plant extract it contains multiple bioactive compounds (including tannins) that can sting or over-dry compromised barriers. Clinical irritation rates are generally low, yet sensitive and eczematous patients have a meaningful risk of irritant reactions or occasional contact allergy to botanicals, so I score it as mild rather than “gentle” for safety. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare (toners, emulsions, serums) and rinse-off cleansers, Vaccinium Myrtillus Leaf Extract is frequently used at trace levels as part of multi-botanical blends or preservative-support/antioxidant complexes, with finished-product levels commonly down around 0.0001–0.05%. Higher-strength consumer products marketed as “botanical/antioxidant concentrates” or “bilberry leaf” ampoules/serums can reach ~1–5% when the extract is a primary featured ingredient and supplied in a stable solvent system (e.g., water/glycerin/butanediol); above ~5% is uncommon in OTC products due to cost, color/odor, and stability/compatibility constraints.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Vaccinium Myrtillus (bilberry) seed oil is primarily an emollient/occlusive lipid used at low-to-moderate levels in moisturizers and serums, and like most refined plant seed oils it is generally well tolerated. However, botanical oils can still trigger irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in a small subset of highly reactive or eczema-prone patients, particularly if the oil is less-refined or oxidized. Given that nonzero risk but overall low clinical irritancy at typical use levels, a gentle score is most appropriate. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare (creams/lotions/serums), Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Seed Oil is often used as a minor emollient/antioxidant-support oil at trace-to-low levels (typically ~0.01–0.2%) within blended “berry seed oil” or “antioxidant oil” complexes. Mid-range inclusion in facial oils and richer balms commonly falls around ~0.5–10% as part of a multi-oil lipid phase. The upper end reaches 100% in consumer-available single-ingredient bilberry seed oil products sold as facial/body oils (neat oil); rinse-off products, when it appears, are usually at the low end due to cost and rinse-off deposition limits.

Valine

MVP Approved - Valine is an amino acid used in skincare primarily for its hydrating and soothing benefits, and it is considered very gentle with minimal irritation risk.

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is primarily used for fragrance/soothing marketing at low concentrations, but it contains aromatic constituents (e.g., vanillin and related phenolics) that can trigger irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in sensitized or eczema-prone patients. Botanical extracts used for scent are a common source of delayed sensitization and can add cumulative irritant burden when layered with other leave-on products. Given the non-essential benefit and the real-world risk profile in reactive skin, it warrants a notable irritancy score. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare (lotions, serums, eye creams) Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is often used at trace levels (~0.0001–0.05%) primarily for scent/marketing story and minor antioxidant/soothing claims, frequently alongside fragrance components. In more “natural”/botanical-positioned leave-on products and some masks, it is commonly used around 0.1–1%. High-strength consumer-available formulations (botanical concentrates, some indie creams/butters and extract-forward products) can reach ~2–5%, with rinse-off products sometimes using similar or slightly higher levels due to lower irritation risk and less stringent sensory constraints.

Vanillin

Vanillin is primarily used as a fragrance/flavor component in cosmetics, typically at low concentrations, but it can still provoke irritation in highly reactive or barrier-impaired skin. Fragrance-related ingredients are overrepresented in patch-test positives and can cause both stinging/irritant dermatitis and, less commonly, allergic contact dermatitis, especially in eczema patients. Given the high-risk sensitive-skin population and the fact it provides no barrier or therapeutic benefit, a moderate irritancy score is warranted with patch testing advised. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare and body care, vanillin is typically used as a fragrance component or flavor/aroma note at trace levels (often ~0.0001–0.01%), especially in products labeled “vanilla-scented” where it supports the parfum accord. Higher levels are seen in strongly scented consumer products (e.g., body lotions, body butters, lip balms, and some rinse-off washes/scrubs) and in “fragrance-forward” or DIY-style formulations where vanillin can reach ~0.1–1.0%, with practical limits driven by solubility, color/odor impact, and oxidation/discoloration risk (more noticeable in leave-on systems).

Verbena Officinalis Leaf Extract

Verbena officinalis leaf extract is a botanical extract used mainly for soothing/antioxidant claims, typically at low concentrations, but it contains multiple plant-derived aromatic compounds that can act as irritants or allergens in reactive skin. Clinical patch-testing and real‑world dermatitis reports for botanicals show non-trivial rates of sensitization in eczema-prone individuals, especially with repeated exposure in multi-product routines. Given the risk profile of fragranced/essential-oil-adjacent plant extracts in compromised skin, a moderate irritancy score is the safer, patient-protective assessment. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare and shampoos/cleansers, Verbena officinalis leaf extract is frequently used as a minor botanical supporting ingredient or part of a preservative/fragrance-botanical complex at very low levels (down to ~0.0001–0.01%), especially when supplied as a glycerin/propylene glycol extract and added for label story rather than primary efficacy. Mid-range use in toners, lotions, and masks is commonly ~0.05–0.5%, while higher-strength consumer-available “botanical concentrate” serums, essences, and some natural deodorants can reach ~1–5% extract (often within a broader herb complex), with higher levels limited by odor, color, and potential irritation rather than specific global cosmetic regulatory maxima.

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

This is an inert, high–molecular weight silicone elastomer/resin crosspolymer used mainly for texture, slip, and blurring at low-to-moderate levels (often a few percent) and it is not biologically active. Clinical experience and patch-testing data for similar non-volatile silicone crosspolymers show very low rates of irritation/sensitization because they are non-reactive and largely remain on the skin surface. Rare issues are usually mechanical/occlusive intolerance in acne- or dermatitis-prone patients rather than true chemical irritation, so it scores as exceptionally gentle but not absolutely inert. Safety Notes: In commercial leave-on cosmetics (primers, siliconey moisturizers, foundations, blurring sunscreens), this silicone elastomer crosspolymer is often used at low levels (~0.1–1%) for slip/soft-focus and texture refinement, especially when paired with other silicones. Higher-strength consumer products such as “pore-filling” primers, matte blurring balms, and elastomer-gel textures can reach ~10–20% active elastomer to build a cushiony, velvety film and oil-absorption/blur; rinse-off products typically sit at the low end due to cost and rinse-away performance.

Viola Tricolor Extract

Viola tricolor (wild pansy) extract is a botanical soothing agent used at low levels (typically <1–5%), but as a complex plant extract it contains multiple small molecules that can trigger stinging or contact dermatitis in reactive or eczematous skin. While generally well-tolerated in the average user, clinical patch-test experience with botanicals supports a non-trivial risk of irritation/sensitization in sensitive populations, especially when layered with other actives or on compromised barriers. Given patient-safety priorities and the unpredictability of botanical variability, I score it as mild rather than “gentle.” Safety Notes: In commercial products, Viola Tricolor (wild pansy/heartsease) extract is often used as a minor soothing/botanical support ingredient in emulsions and cleansers at trace-to-low levels (~0.001–0.1%), especially when added via a preserved glycerin/propylene glycol extract. Higher-end “botanical active” serums, masks, and some natural/organic creams commonly place it in the 0.5–2% range, and a small number of consumer-available formulations (e.g., concentrated gel-serums or products built around a Viola tricolor extract blend) use it up to about 5% depending on extract form and supplier usage allowances; rinse-off products typically sit toward the lower end due to cost and limited contact time.

Vitis Vinifera

Vitis vinifera (grape-derived) ingredients are typically used as extracts/oils for antioxidant/emollient benefits, but plant-derived extracts contain complex polyphenols and other constituents that can trigger stinging or contact dermatitis in reactive or eczematous skin. While generally well-tolerated at common cosmetic concentrations, the variability in extract composition and documented cases of botanical sensitization justify a mild irritancy score with caution for highly sensitive users. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Vitis vinifera–derived materials (most commonly grape seed extract, grape fruit extract, grape water/juice, or grape seed oil) are frequently used at very low levels (around 0.0001–0.1%) as label-claim botanicals in both leave-on and rinse-off products. Mid-range use (0.5–3%) is common when the ingredient is intended to contribute measurable antioxidant/emollient performance, particularly in serums, creams, and masks. High-strength consumer-available products such as grape seed oil–focused face oils and some botanical-heavy creams can use about 5–10% of a grape-derived component (especially the oil), while higher levels are uncommon due to sensorial, stability/oxidation, and cost constraints; there is no specific EU/FDA maximum for grape-derived cosmetic ingredients beyond general safety requirements.

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract is primarily an antioxidant/polyphenol botanical used at low concentrations, but botanical extracts carry a meaningful risk of irritation due to variable phenolic content and trace impurities. In patch testing and real-world sensitive-skin use, reactions are uncommon but do occur (stinging, erythema, dermatitis), especially in eczema-prone users and when layered with other actives. Given the variability between suppliers and the heightened risk in compromised barriers, it fits a mild irritancy profile. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare and rinse-off cleansers, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract is frequently used as a label-claim antioxidant/soothing botanical at trace to low levels (often ~0.0001–0.1%), especially when supplied in dilute glycerin/propylene glycol/water carriers. More concentrated consumer serums, masks, and “polyphenol/resveratrol/grape antioxidant” products can push total grape fruit extract into the low single digits, with upper-end OTC products typically topping out around ~3–5% due to color/odor, phenolic astringency, and stability constraints; there is no specific EU/FDA maximum for this botanical extract, so practical formulation limits drive the observed cap.

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Vitis Vinifera (grape) fruit water is primarily a diluent/skin-conditioning botanical water used at relatively high levels as part of the water phase, and it is generally well tolerated in clinical and consumer use compared with potent actives. However, as a plant-derived water it can contain trace organic acids, sugars, and polyphenols that occasionally sting or provoke reactivity in highly compromised skin, so it cannot be considered fully inert like purified water. For patient-safety in sensitive populations, it fits best as a very gentle ingredient with low but nonzero irritation potential. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water is often used as a minor botanical ‘active’/marketing additive in creams, serums, and cleansers at ~0.1–1% (sometimes up to a few percent) alongside other extracts. The top end is driven by consumer-available face mists/toners and ‘grape water’ spray products where grape fruit water is the primary aqueous phase and can be used essentially neat (often labeled as the main/sole ingredient with only trace preservatives), reaching ~95–99% in leave-on sprays; rinse-off products typically sit toward the low end due to cost and limited benefit after rinse.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract is primarily an antioxidant/soothing botanical used at low concentrations (often <1–3%) and is generally well tolerated, with low rates of irritant reactions in routine cosmetic use. However, as a polyphenol-rich plant extract, it can still trigger irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in a small subset of highly reactive or eczema-prone patients, especially when combined with other actives in a routine. Scoring it as gentle (0.3) reflects typical safety while acknowledging non-zero botanical sensitization risk. Safety Notes: In mass-market leave-on skincare (lotions, toners, cleansers), Vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract is commonly used as a label-claim antioxidant at very low levels (~0.001–0.05%), especially when supplied in diluted glycerin/propylene glycol carriers. Dedicated antioxidant/brightening serums and oil-phase treatments sometimes use substantially higher active loads, with observed consumer OTC formulas reaching ~1–5% when the extract is standardized or used as a primary featured active; higher levels are limited by solubility, color/odor impact, and stability rather than regulation. Rinse-off products typically sit toward the low end due to short contact time, while leave-on serums/creams account for the upper end.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a non-volatile emollient lipid typically used at meaningful levels (often several percent up to higher in oil phases) to reduce transepidermal water loss and improve barrier feel, and it is generally well-tolerated in clinical use. Irritation and sensitization rates for the oil itself are low, but in very reactive/eczema-prone patients it can still provoke stinging or dermatitis (including from residual impurities/oxidation products), so it is best considered very gentle rather than universally inert. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is frequently used at trace levels (~0.01–0.1%) as part of a botanical oil blend or to support claim positioning in lotions/serums and some rinse-off cleansers. Mid-range use (1–20%) is common in leave-on creams, facial oils, and balm-type formulas where it functions as an emollient and carrier oil. The upper end reaches 100% in consumer-available single-ingredient grape seed oil products sold as face/body/hair oils, which are OTC and not restricted by cosmetic regulations beyond general safety/labeling requirements.

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

VP/Eicosene Copolymer is an inert, high–molecular weight film-forming polymer used at low levels (typically a few percent or less) to improve slip, wear, and water resistance, with minimal skin penetration. Clinical irritation and patch-test signals for this class of copolymers are generally very low, with reactions more often related to occlusion/feel than true irritancy. I score it 0.1 (not 0.0) because even “non-reactive” polymers can rarely trigger intolerance in severely compromised barrier states, but the intrinsic irritation potential is exceptionally low. Safety Notes: Vp/Eicosene Copolymer is most often used as a film former/texture aid in leave-on color cosmetics and skincare (e.g., sunscreens, primers, long-wear moisturizers) where it appears at low supportive levels around 0.1–1%. In higher-hold or more water-resistant consumer products (long-wear makeup, transfer-resistant sunscreens, styling-type skin films), real-world use can rise into the mid-to-high single digits, with specialty OTC formulations observed up to ~10–12% to maximize film integrity and wear. There is no specific EU/FDA maximum for this polymer in cosmetics; practical upper limits are driven by aesthetics, viscosity, and processing/stability rather than regulation.

Vp/Va Copolymer

VP/VA Copolymer is a high–molecular weight film-forming polymer used mainly in hair styling products and some cosmetics (typically a few percent) and is generally considered low-irritancy because it has minimal skin penetration. Clinical and patch-test experience suggests reactions are uncommon, with most issues arising from drying/occlusive film effects or impurities/associated formulation components rather than the polymer itself. For severely reactive or eczematous skin, I score it as very gentle but not inert because occasional irritation can occur in compromised barriers. Safety Notes: Vp/VA Copolymer is a film-forming fixative used across consumer hair and some skincare styling formats; at the low end (~0.05–0.3%) it appears as a minor stabilizing/film-forming aid in leave-on lotions, primers, and light setting sprays. In high-hold consumer products (aerosol/non-aerosol hairsprays, styling gels, edge controls), it is commonly used in the several-percent range and can reach ~10–12% active polymer to achieve strong hold and durable films. No specific EU/FDA cosmetic concentration limit is set for this polymer; practical upper levels are driven by viscosity, sprayability, and flaking/tack trade-offs, with rinse-off products typically using lower levels than leave-on hold products.

Water

MVP Approved - Plain ordinary Water

Wheat Amino Acids

Wheat amino acids are primarily used as humectant/conditioning components in low concentrations (often ~0.1–5%) and are generally well-tolerated with low irritancy in patch testing and routine cosmetic use. However, as a hydrolyzed/derived wheat material, they can still provoke stinging or contact reactions in a small subset of highly reactive or eczema-prone patients, so I rate them as gentle rather than very gentle for compromised skin. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare and haircare, wheat amino acids are often used as a minor conditioning/humectant component in leave-on lotions/serums and rinse-off cleansers at ~0.05–0.5% (commonly dosed via a dilute supplier solution). Higher-strength consumer products (especially hair masks/conditioners, protein/peptide treatments, and some barrier-support creams) are observed using ~1–5% active-equivalent to boost conditioning and moisturization; above this is uncommon due to formula tackiness, solubility/viscosity impacts, odor/color, and diminishing sensory benefits. There is no specific FDA/EU maximum for “wheat amino acids” as such, but wheat-derived materials can trigger allergen/gluten labeling considerations depending on jurisdiction and impurity profile.

Wheat Germ Glycerides

Wheat Germ Glycerides are lipid-based emollient/skin-conditioning agents typically used at low-to-moderate levels to improve barrier feel and softness, and they are not intrinsically reactive like acids or retinoids. However, wheat-derived components can be problematic in a subset of highly reactive or eczematous patients due to potential residual protein/impurity content and the general sensitization risk seen with botanically sourced lipids, so occasional irritation or flare is plausible. Given the stakes for compromised skin and the availability of lower-risk alternative emollients, I score this as mild irritancy. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Wheat Germ Glycerides are most often used as an emollient/skin-conditioning lipid at low levels (~0.05–0.5%) in lotions, cleansers, and multi-ingredient creams where it functions as a minor part of the oil phase. Higher levels are seen in richer leave-on creams, body butters, and lip products where it can serve as a more substantive emollient component (commonly 1–5%), with specialty nourishing balms and anhydrous/low-water oil-phase-heavy products reaching about 10% in consumer OTC offerings. Use is primarily leave-on; rinse-off formats generally stay toward the low end due to cost and deposition/feel constraints, and there is no specific EU/FDA maximum concentration limit beyond general safety and allergen/labeling considerations for wheat-derived materials.