Skincare Ingredients

Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract

Plinia cauliflora (jabuticaba) fruit extract is primarily an antioxidant/soothing botanical used at low percentages, but it contains polyphenols/anthocyanins and other plant constituents that can sting or trigger irritant or allergic contact reactions in reactive or eczematous skin. While not a classic high-risk sensitizer like fragrance, the limited standardized patch-test data for this specific extract and variability between suppliers warrant a mild score, especially in compromised skin or when layered with other actives. Safety Notes: In commercial leave-on skincare (serums, creams, masks), Plinia cauliflora (jabuticaba) fruit extract is most commonly used as a supportive antioxidant/soothing botanical at very low inclusion levels (~0.01–0.1%), reflecting typical supplier-recommended use rates for fruit/polyphenol extracts and the fact it is often one of many botanicals in a blend. Higher-strength consumer products marketed around jabuticaba/“Brazilian berry” actives (single-hero botanical serums/ampoules, concentrated gel-creams, and some rinse-off masks/scrubs) can reach ~1–5% extract, with the upper end limited by solubility, color/odor impact, polyphenol-driven stability (browning), and potential tack/irritation in leave-on formats.

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Plukenetia volubilis (sacha inchi) seed oil is an emollient lipid typically used at meaningful levels (often several percent up to the oil phase) to support barrier function, and it is generally well-tolerated in leave-on products. Clinically, non-fragranced plant oils have low irritancy overall, but this oil contains unsaponifiables and residual minor components that can trigger irritation or allergy in a small subset of highly reactive/eczema-prone patients, so it is not scored as “very gentle.” In cumulative routines for compromised skin, the main risk is individual contact sensitivity or impurity/oxidation-related reactivity, supporting a cautious “gentle” score. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (sacha inchi oil) appears at very low levels (~0.05–0.5%) in emulsions/serums primarily as a label-friendly emollient or minor component of an oil blend, with 1–10% being common for moisturizers, facial oils, and barrier creams. High-strength consumer products include anhydrous facial oils, hair/scalp oils, and body oils where it can be the primary lipid phase (20–80%) or the sole ingredient (100% single-ingredient oil). No specific EU/FDA maximum concentration applies for cosmetic use; practical limits are driven by sensory/oxidative stability (often managed with antioxidants/packaging) and product format (leave-on oils vs rinse-off cleansers where levels are typically lower).

Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract

Podocarpus elatus (Illawarra plum) fruit extract is used mainly as an antioxidant/conditioning botanical, typically at low percentages, but it contains a complex mix of polyphenols and other phytochemicals that can be irritant or allergenic in reactive or eczematous skin. There is limited ingredient-specific human patch-test/clinical irritation data available, so for patient safety in highly sensitive populations I score it as mild irritancy potential, acknowledging that botanical extracts are a common source of unpredictable reactions even when marketed as “gentle.” Safety Notes: Podocarpus elatus (Illawarra plum) fruit extract is a niche botanical typically used as an antioxidant/conditioning “label” extract in emulsions and serums at very low levels (often ~0.0001–0.1% active extract, especially when supplied in glycerin/water carriers and added as part of an extract blend). In specialty antioxidant-focused leave-on products and some “superfruit” concentrates marketed to consumers, I have observed use up to about 1–2% of the supplied extract, with higher levels limited by odor/color contribution and formula stability rather than regulation; rinse-off products are generally at the low end due to short contact time.

Poloxamer 184

Poloxamer 184 is a nonionic surfactant/solubilizer used mainly to stabilize formulas and aid cleansing, typically at low percentages where it is generally well tolerated. Clinical and patch-test experience with poloxamers shows a low rate of irritation and sensitization, but as a surfactant class ingredient it can still cause mild stinging or barrier dryness in highly reactive or eczema-prone skin, especially when used in leave-on or cleansing products repeatedly. For patient safety in severely sensitive populations, I score it as very gentle rather than inert. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Poloxamer 184 is most often used as a mild nonionic solubilizer/surfactant and formulation aid, appearing at very low levels (~0.05–0.5%) in leave-on serums, micellar-type waters, and emulsions to help wetting/solubilization and improve sensory. Higher levels are observed in rinse-off cleansers and makeup-remover gels/foaming washes where it can function as a primary or co-surfactant, with consumer products reaching ~5–10% for stronger cleansing/solubilizing performance. Concentrations above this are uncommon in OTC skincare due to viscosity/texture, cost, and irritation/defatting risk, and because other surfactants are typically blended to meet foam and detergency targets.

Poloxamer 407

Poloxamer 407 is a nonionic surfactant/solubilizer and gel former commonly used in cleansers, micellar products, and drug-delivery gels at low-to-moderate percentages, and it is generally well tolerated on skin and mucosa in clinical use. However, as a surfactant it can contribute to barrier lipid disruption and dryness/irritation in highly reactive or eczematous skin—especially in leave-on cleansing waters or when layered with other irritants—so it is not fully inert. Overall it fits a very gentle profile for most sensitive-skin users, with a small but real irritation potential in compromised barriers. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, Poloxamer 407 is commonly used at very low levels (~0.05–1%) as a solubilizer/surfactant in micellar waters, makeup removers, and some cleansers, with occasional use up to ~3–5% to boost mild cleansing and improve rinse feel. The highest consumer-available levels occur in poloxamer-gelled aqueous systems (notably thermoreversible “cold-process” gels and some high-clarity gel cleansers/makeup removers), where Poloxamer 407 is the primary structurant and can reach ~15–25% depending on desired gel strength; these are OTC and used both leave-on and rinse-off, though very high levels are more typical of rinse-off/cleansing or gel vehicle formats.

Polyacrylamide

Polyacrylamide is a high–molecular weight film-forming/thickening polymer used at low percentages in gels and texture systems; the polymer itself is generally non-reactive and shows low irritation in cosmetic use. The primary safety concern is trace residual acrylamide monomer, which can increase irritation risk if manufacturing quality is poor, so it cannot be treated as completely inert for highly reactive or eczema-prone skin. In typical well-controlled cosmetic formulations it is usually well tolerated, but I score it as very gentle rather than inert to reflect real-world variability and patient-safety caution. Safety Notes: In consumer skincare, polyacrylamide is most commonly supplied as part of pre-neutralized gel networks (e.g., polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7), so the lowest observed use levels in finished products are around 0.05–0.2% active polymer for light thickening/sensory slip in leave-on lotions/serums. Typical leave-on creams and sunscreens more often land around ~0.2–1.5% active polymer for structuring and emulsion stabilization. The highest OTC use levels observed are in very thick gels, peel-off/firming masks, and some styling/gel-texture products where the polyacrylamide network can approach ~2–3% active polymer; higher levels are uncommon due to texture, tack, and monomer (acrylamide) residual control expectations.

Polyacrylate-17

Polyacrylate-17 is a synthetic polymer used primarily as a thickener/film-former and stabilizer, typically at low concentrations (about <1–5%) in leave-on and rinse-off products. As a high–molecular weight, non-volatile polymer, it has minimal skin penetration and is generally associated with very low rates of irritant reactions in patch testing, with true allergy being uncommon. In severely compromised barriers (e.g., active eczema), the main risk is mild mechanical/occlusive-related stinging rather than intrinsic chemical irritation, so it remains very gentle but not completely inert. Safety Notes: Polyacrylate-17 is a synthetic polymer rheology modifier/film former typically used at low levels in leave-on emulsions, serums, and sunscreens to build viscosity and stabilize dispersed phases; commercial products commonly start around ~0.05–0.2% when it’s part of a broader thickener system. Higher-strength consumer products such as gel-creams, primers, setting/film-forming skincare, and high-viscosity styling-type skincare gels can push total Polyacrylate-17 into the ~1–3% range to deliver pronounced gel structure and film properties (generally higher in leave-on than rinse-off). It is not specifically concentration-restricted by major cosmetic regulations, with practical upper limits driven by aesthetics (tack/drag), clarity, and compatibility with electrolytes and other polymers rather than regulatory caps.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

MVP Approved - Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a synthetic polymer primarily used as a thickener, stabilizer, and texture enhancer in skincare formulations, with a very low risk of irritation in typical use.

Polyamide-8

Polyamide-8 is a synthetic polymer film former/texture agent used at low percentages in cosmetics (commonly a few percent) to improve wear and feel, and it is generally not a biologically active irritant. Clinical experience and patch-testing trends for high–molecular weight polymers like this show low direct irritation because they have minimal skin penetration, though compromised barriers can still react to occlusive film formers or impurities. Given the low intrinsic reactivity but non-zero risk in highly eczematous skin, it best fits a very gentle (0.2) profile rather than truly inert. Safety Notes: Polyamide-8 is most commonly used as a film-forming/texture and wear-improving polymer in leave-on color cosmetics and skincare primers, where it can appear at low levels (~0.1–0.5%) as part of a polymer blend to enhance slip and reduce tack. In higher-performance long-wear, smoothing, or water-resistant leave-on formulations (primers, foundations, some specialty moisturizers), it can be used at a few percent, with high-strength consumer products observed up to ~5% where the polymer is a major structuring/film-forming component. Rinse-off products tend to use it less frequently and typically at the low end when present, due to limited benefit versus cost and sensorial impact.

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

Polyaminopropyl biguanide (PHMB) is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial preservative/disinfectant typically used at low concentrations (about 0.01–0.1% in cosmetics/cleansers; higher in some antiseptic uses). Despite low use levels, clinical and post-market data show it can cause irritant dermatitis and, in a minority of users, allergic contact dermatitis—risk that increases on compromised skin barriers (eczema, post-procedure) and with leave-on exposure. Given its biocidal mechanism and documented reactivity in sensitized populations, I score it as moderate irritation potential where patch testing is prudent for highly sensitive skin. Safety Notes: Polyaminopropyl Biguanide (PHMB) is used primarily as a preservative/antimicrobial in consumer skin-cleansing and personal care products, commonly appearing at very low “booster” levels around 0.0001–0.01% (especially in rinse-off cleansers and wipes) and more typically around ~0.02–0.1% where it is the main preservative system. The upper end in OTC consumer-available products reaches about 0.3% in some high-antimicrobial cleansing/wipe-type formulations, but higher levels are generally uncommon due to irritation/sensitization risk and regulatory scrutiny; leave-on facial products tend to stay on the lower half of the range versus rinse-off.

Polybutene

Polybutene is a high–molecular weight synthetic hydrocarbon used as an emollient/occlusive (often a few to ~20%+) in lip products and creams, and it is generally non-reactive and not pH-dependent. Clinical experience and patch-test data indicate a very low rate of irritation or sensitization, with reactions being uncommon and usually limited to rare individual intolerance or occlusion-related discomfort. Given its broad tolerability even in sensitive populations but acknowledging that virtually any leave-on occlusive can bother a small subset of highly reactive or eczema-prone patients, it best fits an exceptionally gentle (not truly inert) score. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare and lip products, polybutene is commonly used at low levels (~0.1–3%) as a slip agent/binder in creams, lotions, sunscreens, and cleansers (both leave-on and rinse-off). The highest consumer-available uses are in anhydrous, high-gloss occlusive formats—especially lip glosses, lip oils, and balms—where polybutene can serve as a primary base fluid and reach ~20–60% depending on viscosity grade and the presence of other oils/hydrogenated polyisobutene. There are no specific EU/FDA cosmetic concentration limits for polybutene; practical limits are driven by sensorial goals, clarity, and viscosity/stability of the anhydrous system.

Polydextrose

Polydextrose is an inert, high–molecular weight glucose polymer used primarily as a humectant/texture agent in cosmetics, typically at low-to-moderate concentrations, and it is not pH-dependent or biologically “active.” Available safety assessments and patch test experience suggest a very low rate of irritation or sensitization, though any polymeric additive can rarely sting on severely compromised skin. Given the need to account for highly reactive/eczema-prone populations, it fits best as very gentle rather than completely inert. Safety Notes: In consumer skincare, polydextrose is most often used as a minor humectant/skin-feel modifier or bulking/texture aid in leave-on lotions/serums and rinse-off cleansers, commonly appearing at trace-to-low levels around 0.05–1%. Higher levels are observed in specialized hydrating gels, barrier-support creams, and some peel-off/mask-type products where it functions more as a soluble film-former/bulking agent, reaching about 3–8% while still maintaining acceptable clarity/viscosity and rinseability. No specific cosmetics maximum limit is set under EU/FDA frameworks for polydextrose, so practical formulation aesthetics and stability (tack, viscosity, microbial risk due to carbohydrate load) typically define the upper end.

Polyester-5

Polyester-5 is an inert synthetic film-forming polymer used primarily in makeup (e.g., long-wear/transfer-resistant products) at low-to-moderate levels; it is not a biologically active ingredient and is generally non-sensitizing. Clinically, irritation is uncommon, but in highly reactive or eczematous skin it can contribute to stinging or dermatitis indirectly via occlusion/film effects or friction—so I do not score it as fully inert. Overall, it is very gentle for most users, with low but non-zero risk in compromised skin. Safety Notes: Polyester-5 is used in OTC cosmetics primarily as a film former/texture modifier (often in sunscreens, primers, and long-wear makeup), where it can appear at low levels (~0.1–1%) to improve feel, wear, and water resistance. In high-hold, high-resistance leave-on formulations (e.g., water-resistant sunscreen lotions/sprays, long-wear primers/foundations), it can be pushed into the mid-to-high single digits, with observed consumer products using up to ~10% depending on the polymer grade and overall film-former package. It is uncommon to see it used at meaningful levels in rinse-off products versus leave-on, where deposition/film formation is the objective.

Polyester-8

Polyester-8 is a synthetic film-forming polymer used in cosmetics at low percentages (typically ~0.1–5%) to improve wear and texture, and it is generally considered biologically inert with minimal skin penetration. Clinical irritation risk is low, but as an occlusive/film former it can rarely provoke stinging or frictional irritation on severely compromised barriers (e.g., active eczema or post-procedure skin), so it is not scored as completely inert. Safety Notes: Polyester-8 is most commonly used as a film-forming/hold polymer in OTC hair-styling and cosmetic leave-on products (gels, sprays, mousses, mascaras), where it can appear at low “supporting” levels around 0.05–0.3% in multi-polymer systems to boost hold and humidity resistance. In high-hold consumer styling gels and strong-hold sprays, it has been observed used as a primary structuring resin in the low single-digits up to about 8%, with higher levels limited by viscosity, tack/flake risk, and solubility/clarity in the chosen solvent system. Rinse-off usage is less common and typically lower because deposition is limited and high levels can impair rinse feel, so the upper end is driven by leave-on styling formats.

Polyethylene

Polyethylene is an inert synthetic polymer used mainly as a film-former, viscosity modifier, or microplastic exfoliant; it is not chemically reactive and is generally non-sensitizing at typical leave-on or rinse-off use levels. However, in real-world eczema and barrier-impaired patients, particulate polyethylene (when used as beads) can contribute to mechanical irritation/friction and worsen microfissuring, so I do not score it as fully inert for sensitive-skin safety. Safety Notes: In consumer skincare, polyethylene is most often used as a solid particulate (microbead/powder) for slip and abrasion in exfoliating cleansers and scrubs, where it can appear at very low levels (~0.05–0.5%) in mild “polishing” products. The highest OTC concentrations are seen in heavy-duty face/body scrubs and pumice-style exfoliating creams, where polyethylene can comprise a substantial portion of the formula (commonly 5–15% and observed up to ~25%) to deliver strong mechanical exfoliation; these are typically rinse-off products. Use has been reduced or restricted in many markets for rinse-off microbeads due to microplastics regulations, but polyethylene still appears in some products (including as a texturizing polymer/wax) where permitted.

Polyglucuronic Acid

Polyglucuronic acid is a high–molecular weight polysaccharide/uronic-acid polymer used primarily as a humectant/film former at low concentrations (typically well under a few percent), where it functions similarly to other skin-conditioning biopolymers. Available safety/patch-test information on poly-uronic acid polymers shows low irritation potential, with reactions more likely related to impurities or formulation pH rather than the polymer itself. For severely reactive or barrier-impaired patients I still assign a small non-zero risk because any polymeric film former can occasionally sting on compromised skin, but it is generally very gentle in routine use. Safety Notes: Polyglucuronic Acid (a glucuronic-acid–rich polysaccharide/biopolymer used for humectancy and film-forming) is typically dosed at very low levels in mass-market leave-on products (toners/serums/creams) around 0.01–0.1% as a secondary moisturizing/texture aid. Higher-strength consumer serums and gel-creams that position it as a primary hydration/skin-feel polymer commonly reach ~0.5–1.0%, with the upper end around ~2.0% in some OTC leave-on “booster”/ampoule-style formulas before viscosity/feel and stability constraints become limiting; rinse-off products tend to sit toward the lower end because of short contact time.

Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglutamic acid is a film-forming humectant (typically used around ~0.1–1%) that primarily boosts hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss, without the keratolytic or pH-dependent activity seen with exfoliating acids. Clinical and consumer safety data generally show low rates of irritation and good tolerability, but rare stinging or redness can occur in highly compromised barriers or when layered with multiple actives, so it is best classified as very gentle rather than inert. Safety Notes: In commercial skincare, polyglutamic acid is most often used as a secondary humectant/film former at very low levels (around 0.01–0.1%) in moisturizers, toners, and rinse-off cleansers where label presence is desired without impacting viscosity or cost. Leave-on serums and hydrating gels commonly sit around ~0.1–1% active polyglutamic acid (often influenced by molecular weight and whether the supplier solution is pre-diluted). High-strength consumer-available “PGA” serums can reach about 2–3% active in leave-on products, with higher levels becoming increasingly limited by tack/film feel, stringiness, and stability/processing constraints; there is no specific EU/FDA maximum, so practical formulation limits dominate.

Polyglycerin-6

Polyglycerin-6 is a non-ionic humectant/emollient (polyol) typically used at a few percent to improve slip and moisturization, and it is generally well-tolerated in patch testing with low inherent irritancy. However, like other polyols, it can occasionally sting on compromised or highly inflamed skin (e.g., eczema flares) due to barrier disruption and osmotic effects, so it is not truly inert. Given its strong safety profile but non-zero potential for transient stinging in sensitized populations, a very gentle score is most appropriate. Safety Notes: Polyglycerin-6 is most often used as a humectant/solubilizer/co-surfactant in emulsions and cleansers, where it commonly appears at low supportive levels around 0.1–1% in leave-on lotions/serums and rinse-off facial cleansers. In higher-solvent or surfactant-lean systems (e.g., micellar waters, makeup removers, gentle sulfate-free cleansers, and some high-humectant gel serums), commercial products use it at several percent, with observed consumer-available high-strength formulations reaching ~10–15% to boost mildness, solubilization, and skin feel. No specific FDA/EU maximum applies for this ingredient in cosmetics; practical upper limits are driven by viscosity, tackiness, clarity, and compatibility rather than regulation.

Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate

Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate is a non-ionic, PEG-free emulsifier/solubilizer typically used at low concentrations (about 0.5–5%) and is generally well-tolerated in clinical and consumer use, including in sensitive-skin formulations. As a caprylic/capric-derived surfactant it can very occasionally sting or feel “cleansing” on severely impaired barriers, but it is not a common irritant or sensitizer, supporting a very gentle score while still acknowledging rare reactivity in eczema-prone users. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate is used in commercial skincare primarily as a mild nonionic solubilizer/co-emulsifier and emollient, where it commonly appears at very low levels (~0.05–0.5%) in leave-on lotions/serums to help disperse fragrance, essential oils, or lipophilic actives. In rinse-off cleansers and micellar/oil-cleansing systems it is often higher (about 1–5%) to boost cleansing/solubilization while maintaining mildness. High-strength consumer-available anhydrous cleansing oils, makeup removers, and self-emulsifying oil-to-milk products can reach ~6–8% to achieve robust self-emulsification and stability without relying on ethoxylated surfactants.

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate is a non-ionic emulsifier/surfactant used at low-to-moderate levels (commonly ~0.5–5%) to solubilize oils and stabilize emulsions, and it is generally well-tolerated in patch testing compared with harsher anionic surfactants. Irritation risk is not zero because surfactants can disrupt the stratum corneum—especially in compromised barrier states (eczema, post-procedure) or in leave-on products layered with other actives—but clinically it is typically considered very gentle when properly formulated. Given its primary role and usual concentrations, a low but non-inert score best reflects patient-safety reality for highly sensitive skin. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate is used as a non-ionic lipophilic emulsifier/co-emulsifier and solubilizer in oil-rich systems; in commercial leave-on lotions/creams, cleansing oils, and makeup removers it is often present at low levels (~0.1–1%) as a stabilizer and sensory modifier alongside other emulsifiers. In higher-oil anhydrous cleansers, cleansing balms/oils, and self-emulsifying oil-to-milk products, it can be pushed into the high single digits and up to ~15% in consumer products to drive emulsification and rinse-off transform performance; higher levels are mainly seen in rinse-off/cleansing formats rather than typical leave-on moisturizers.

Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate

Polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate is a nonionic emulsifier/emollient typically used at low percentages (about 0.5–5%) to stabilize creams and improve skin feel. As a large, non-volatile fatty ester/sugar-derived surfactant, it has low penetration and is generally well-tolerated in patch testing with irritation uncommon. I’m scoring it as very gentle rather than exceptionally gentle because any emulsifier can occasionally trigger stinging in severely barrier-impaired or eczema-prone skin when used repeatedly in leave-on routines. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate is a nonionic emulsifier/consistency agent most often used at low levels (~0.1–1%) in leave-on creams/lotions and serums to stabilize O/W emulsions and improve slip. In richer anhydrous/balm-like or high-lipid barrier creams and cleansing creams, commercial products commonly use it in the 2–5% range as a primary structurant/emulsifier, with some high-structure OTC formulations reaching about 8% when it is carrying much of the emulsification/texture load. There are no specific EU/FDA concentration caps for this ingredient in cosmetics; practical upper limits are typically driven by viscosity, waxy feel, and phase/stability considerations rather than regulation.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a non-ionic emulsifier/solubilizer typically used around ~0.5–5% to help disperse oils and improve cleansing/emulsion stability. Compared with harsher surfactants, polyglyceryl esters generally show low rates of irritation in patch testing, but as a surfactant-like ingredient they can still disrupt barrier lipids and provoke stinging or dryness in very reactive or eczematous skin, especially in leave-on products or when combined with other cleansers/actives. Given that small subsets of sensitive-skin patients do react and cumulative routine effects matter, it fits best as “Gentle” rather than “Very gentle.” Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-10 laurate is a nonionic surfactant/solubilizer and mild O/W emulsifier; in real-world leave-on products (serums, emulsions, micellar-type waters) it is commonly present at low levels (~0.1–1%) to solubilize fragrance/oils or support emulsion stability. In rinse-off cleansers and high-surfactant systems (foaming cleansers, makeup removers, cleansing oils/emulsifying balms) it is used at higher levels (typically ~2–6%), with the upper end around ~8% seen in consumer-available “self-emulsifying” cleansing oils/balms and high-solubilizer formulas. No specific FDA/EU maximum applies beyond general cosmetic safety; practical upper limits are driven by texture, irritation potential, and phase behavior.

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is a non-ionic emulsifier/surfactant typically used at low concentrations (~0.5–5%) and is generally well-tolerated, including in sensitive-skin formulations. Clinical and patch-test experience suggests low irritation and low sensitization potential compared with harsher surfactants, but any emulsifier can rarely sting or provoke irritation in severely compromised barriers (e.g., active eczema or post-procedure skin). Given patient-safety considerations for reactive populations, it fits best as very gentle rather than fully inert. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate is a nonionic O/W emulsifier commonly used at low levels (~0.1–1%) in lotions, serums, and cleansing emulsions primarily as an emulsification aid or co-emulsifier. In richer leave-on creams, mineral-sunscreen emulsions, and anhydrous-to-emulsion balm/cream systems sold OTC, it is sometimes used as a primary emulsifier/structurant in the ~3–8% range to build viscosity and stabilize higher oil loads. Above ~8% is uncommon in consumer skincare due to texture/drag and cost, and it is not subject to specific EU/FDA maximum concentration limits beyond general cosmetic safety requirements.

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a non-ionic emulsifier/structuring agent typically used at low single-digit percentages in creams and makeup, and it is generally well-tolerated because it is not pH-active and does not act as a solvent or exfoliant. Available safety assessments and practical patch-test experience suggest a low rate of irritation compared with harsher surfactants, though any emulsifier can rarely sting or provoke irritation in severely barrier-impaired skin. Given its function and typical exposure level, I rate it as very gentle with minimal but non-zero irritation potential in highly reactive patients. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is primarily used as a W/O emulsifier and dispersant in anhydrous-to-low-water systems (water-in-oil foundations, tinted sunscreens, concealers, balm textures), and is observed in commercial formulas at low levels (~0.2–1%) when used mainly as a pigment wetting/dispersing aid or co-emulsifier. In high-structure W/O emulsions and long-wear color cosmetics available OTC, usage commonly rises to ~2–8%, and can reach ~10–15% in specialty high-pigment, high-silicone/anhydrous or very low-water systems where it functions as a primary emulsifier/structurant. Rinse-off products typically sit at the low end (if used at all), while leave-on complexion and sun products drive the upper end of the market range.

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate is a non-ionic emulsifier/skin-conditioning agent typically used at low-to-moderate levels (~1–5%) to stabilize oil-water mixtures, and it is generally well tolerated in repeat-use and patch-test experience. True irritation is uncommon, but in severely compromised barriers (eczema flares, post-procedure skin) any surfactant-like emulsifier can contribute to stinging or dryness in a minority of highly reactive individuals. Given its overall low inherent irritancy yet non-zero risk in compromised skin, it fits best as very gentle rather than inert. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate is used as a nonionic emulsifier/co-emulsifier and emollient, and in many consumer leave-on lotions/creams it appears at low supportive levels around 0.1–1% (often alongside stronger primary emulsifier systems). In richer leave-on creams, cleansing creams/balms, and high-oil anhydrous-to-emulsifying systems marketed to consumers, it is commonly used at ~2–6% and can be pushed to about 10–12% in high-structure specialty formulations where it functions as a major emulsifier/texture builder; rinse-off products tend to sit in the lower-to-mid part of this range due to cost and sensory targets.

Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate

Polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate is a non-ionic emulsifier/solubilizer and emollient typically used at low single-digit percentages in makeup, sunscreens, and balms; it is not an exfoliating active and has no intrinsic pH-dependent reactivity. Clinical experience and patch-test data for polyglyceryl esters show low rates of irritation and sensitization, though any surfactant-like emulsifier can occasionally sting or exacerbate dermatitis on severely compromised barriers. Given its generally excellent tolerability but non-zero risk in highly reactive eczema populations, a very gentle (0.2) score is the safest evidence-aligned assessment. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate is most often used as a W/O emulsifier and pigment/UV-filter dispersant in color cosmetics and anhydrous balm/oil systems; in mainstream leave-on skincare and makeup it commonly appears around ~0.1–5% for emulsion stabilization or improved spread/pigment wetting. At the low end (~0.1–0.3%) it shows up as a secondary stabilizer/dispersant in lotions, sunscreens, and makeup, while higher levels (10–20%) are observed in consumer-available anhydrous cleansing balms, makeup removers, long-wear foundations/lip products, and high-pigment sticks where it functions as a primary structuring/wetting agent. No specific FDA/EU maximum is set for this ingredient; practical upper limits are driven by texture, viscosity, and compatibility with the oil phase rather than regulation.

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax is a nonionic emulsifying wax/structuring agent typically used at low-to-moderate levels in creams and balms, and it is generally well-tolerated with low rates of irritant reactions in patch testing compared with fragrances, acids, or harsher surfactants. While true irritation potential is low, beeswax-derived materials can occasionally be problematic in highly reactive or atopic patients due to trace impurities or individual sensitivity, so it is not scored as completely inert. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax is used as a PEG-free structuring wax/co-emulsifier, and in many commercial leave-on emulsions (lotions/creams/serums) it appears at low levels around 0.1–1% to aid stability and add light body. In richer leave-on products like balms, salves, stick products, and anhydrous ointment-type moisturizers, it is used much higher (commonly ~3–10%) and can reach ~15–20% in high-wax, consumer-available barrier balms or deodorant-style sticks where it serves as a primary structurant; rinse-off products typically sit toward the lower end due to sensorial/rinseability constraints.

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-3 caprate is a nonionic surfactant/emulsifier and mild solubilizer typically used at low concentrations (about 0.1–5%) in cleansers and emulsions; it is generally well-tolerated compared with harsher surfactants. However, as a caprylic/capric fatty-acid ester it can still contribute to barrier lipid disruption and stinging in highly reactive or eczematous skin, especially in leave-on products or when combined with other surfactants, so it is best classified as gentle rather than exceptionally gentle. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-3 caprate is used commercially as a mild nonionic surfactant/solubilizer and co-emulsifier; in leave-on creams/serums and micellar-type products it often appears at very low levels (~0.05–1%) to aid solubilization, emulsion stability, or preservative-boosting. In rinse-off cleansers, intimate washes, and high-surfactant “natural”/PEG-free cleansing systems, it is found much higher (commonly ~2–10%), with specialty consumer-available cleansing concentrates and surfactant bases reaching ~12–15% as part of the primary surfactant blend. No specific EU/FDA maximum applies, so the upper end is mainly constrained by sensorial tolerance, irritation potential in leave-on use, and overall surfactant system stability.

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate is a nonionic emulsifier/surfactant used typically at low percentages (about 0.5–5%) to stabilize oil-water systems, and it is generally well tolerated because it is not a strong degreasing cleanser surfactant. Human irritation and patch-test experience with polyglyceryl esters overall shows low irritancy and low sensitization potential, though any emulsifier can rarely sting or irritate severely compromised eczema skin when barrier function is markedly impaired. Given broad tolerability in sensitive-skin formulations but acknowledging occasional reactivity in highly compromised skin, I score it as very gentle rather than exceptionally gentle. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is most commonly used as a W/O emulsifier and pigment/dispersing aid, and in many leave-on creams, lotions, and makeup products it appears at low support levels around ~0.1–1% (sometimes slightly higher) to improve stability and sensorials. In consumer-available anhydrous/balm-type products (cleansing balms, makeup removers, balm cleansers) and high-slip makeup systems, it can function as a primary structuring/emulsifying lipid and is observed at much higher levels, commonly 5–15% and up to ~35% in specialized OTC balms/cleansers and heavy makeup bases. No specific FDA/EU maximum concentration applies beyond general safety requirements; practical limits are driven by phase behavior, viscosity, and sensory constraints, with higher levels more typical in rinse-off/cleansing and anhydrous formats than in standard leave-on emulsions.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a non-ionic emulsifier and skin-conditioning agent typically used at low percentages (about 1–5%) in creams and lotions, and it is generally well-tolerated because it lacks the strong protein-denaturing potential seen with harsher surfactants. Clinical experience and patch-test reporting suggest a low rate of irritant reactions, but compromised skin barriers (eczema, post-procedure) can still sting or react to any emulsifier due to barrier disruption and cumulative exposure in full routines. For safety in highly reactive populations, I rate it as very gentle rather than exceptionally gentle. Safety Notes: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a nonionic O/W emulsifier commonly used in consumer leave-on creams/lotions; at the low end (~0.2–1%) it appears as a secondary co-emulsifier/stabilizer in lighter emulsions and serums. In richer moisturizers, body butters, sunscreens, and barrier creams it is often used as a primary emulsifier system at ~2–6%, with the highest OTC levels around ~7–8% in very high oil-phase, waxy, or anhydrous-adjacent emulsions where added lamellar structure/viscosity is needed. Rinse-off products generally sit toward the lower-middle of the range because high levels can feel heavy and are less cost-effective, while leave-on products more commonly reach the upper end.