Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate

Low irritancy

Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate is a high–molecular weight ester blend used primarily as an emollient/texture agent and pigment dispersant, typically at low-to-moderate percentages in creams and color cosmetics. These fatty ester polymers are generally not biologically active and have low water solubility, so clinical irritation and sensitization reports are uncommon compared with preservatives, fragrances, or acids. I am not scoring it as fully inert because, in severely compromised barriers (e.g., active eczema), any occlusive emollient film can occasionally provoke stinging or follicular irritation in a small subset of reactive patients, but overall it is very gentle at typical use levels. Safety Notes: This ingredient is typically used as a structuring/oil-gelling rheology modifier and pigment-wetting/dispersing aid in anhydrous or low-water systems (e.g., lipsticks, lip balms, stick sunscreens, makeup, cleansing balms), where it can appear at very low levels (~0.1–0.5%) as a dispersant/feel modifier. In high-structure consumer products such as waxy sticks, balm-to-oil cleansers, and long-wear color cosmetics, commercial formulas commonly use it in the mid single digits and can reach ~10–15% when it is a primary oil-structurant network component. Use is predominantly leave-on (color cosmetics/sunscreens) but also occurs in rinse-off cleansing balms; there is no specific EU/FDA concentration cap, so practical limits are driven by texture, pay-off, and stability rather than regulation.

Hydrating

Identifiers

CosIng
55961