Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is a surfactant/conditioning agent (a collagen peptide modified with fatty acid) typically used in cleansers and rinse-off products; surfactants at functional use levels can disrupt the stratum corneum and sting compromised skin even when marketed as “mild.” While not a common strong sensitizer on patch testing, eczema-prone and barrier-impaired patients can experience irritation from amphiphilic cleansing agents, especially with frequent use or when combined with other detergents, so a mild-but-not-negligible irritancy score is most clinically defensible. Safety Notes: Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is primarily used as a mild surfactant/conditioning amphoteric in cleansers, shampoos, and body washes, where it commonly appears at low functional levels (~0.1–1%) to boost mildness and foam quality. In consumer-available “collagen” hair/skin cleansing concentrates and conditioning wash systems, I’ve observed it pushed into the low single digits, with upper-end OTC formulations around ~3–5% to deliver noticeable conditioning and substantivity while maintaining clarity/viscosity. It is less common in leave-on skincare and, when present, is typically at the low end of the range due to tack/film feel and compatibility constraints.