Behenic Acid
Behenic acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid used mainly as an emollient/thickener in leave-on and rinse-off products, typically at low single-digit percentages, and it is generally well tolerated. Clinically, fatty acids of this type have low irritancy in patch testing, with reactions more likely related to formulation factors (high occlusion, damaged barrier, or impurities) than the acid itself. For eczema-prone or compromised skin I still assign a small non-zero risk because heavy emollient films can occasionally sting or trigger follicular irritation in reactive individuals. Safety Notes: In commercial cosmetics, behenic acid is most often used as a minor co-emollient/structuring fatty acid or as part of fatty-acid blends, showing up around ~0.05–0.5% in many leave-on creams/lotions and some rinse-off cleansers where it supports slip and viscosity. Higher levels are seen in heavy barrier creams, body butters, and solid/oil-rich sticks where it functions as a primary consistency agent/co-structurant, with consumer-available formulas reaching ~5–10% (above this, texture/waxiness and processing constraints typically limit use rather than regulation). This range reflects observed OTC market practice across leave-on and rinse-off products rather than a regulatory maximum (no specific EU/FDA concentration cap is generally applied to behenic acid as a cosmetic ingredient).
Identifiers
- CosIng
- 74584
- EC
- 204-010-8