Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a lipophilic vitamin C derivative typically used around 0.5–5% (sometimes higher) and is generally better tolerated than low‑pH L‑ascorbic acid because it does not require an acidic formulation to function. Clinical experience and patch-test patterns suggest low irritancy overall, but at higher concentrations and in penetration-enhancing, oil-rich vehicles it can still trigger stinging or eczematous flares in highly reactive skin. Given sensitive-skin safety considerations and the potential for cumulative irritation in multi-active routines, it fits best as a gentle but not exceptionally inert ingredient. Safety Notes: In real-world consumer products, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is found at very low levels (~0.05–0.2%) in multi-ingredient moisturizers/sunscreens and antioxidant blends where it functions as a supportive oil-phase vitamin C derivative. Most leave-on serums and facial oils use it around 1–10%, while high-strength consumer-available “oil soluble vitamin C” concentrates/ampoules and anhydrous silicone/oil serums are marketed at ~20–30% (limited mainly by solubility, sensory, and oxidation control rather than specific regulatory caps). It is uncommon in rinse-off at meaningful levels; the upper end is overwhelmingly leave-on, anhydrous or low-water systems designed to protect the derivative from hydrolysis/oxidation.
Identifiers
- CosIng
- 54533